Since September, I have spent over fourteen full days in different Magistrate’s courtrooms in Lagos, and I haven’t heard a single verdict. One of the reasons cases drag on is a chronic absence of witnesses. Formerly dedicated witnesses get tired after years of adjournments and eventually give up on over-aged cases. Even if they have been informed about the date they are supposed to testify in court, there is not much the Prosecutor can do to force them to appear.
Read Court Chronicles: Witnesses Suffering Court Fatigue
My new series on the wheelings and dealings of the Nigerian court system started in September. The English version will be running in Telegraph Nigeria, and has been baptised 'Court Chronicles'. After rounding up my previous series—Femke Becomes Funke
—I contemplated how to move on in my writing about Nigeria. Then I remembered I used to love court reporting when I started out as a journalist in The Netherlands, which also reminded me of how much I learned in court. It made me realise there is no better way of getting to know a country and portraying a society.
Read Court Chronicles' first entry
When we met for the first time, Chika Unigwe was the immigrant. In Turnhout, the Flemish city where she lives with her Belgian husband and four sons, I interviewed the Nigerian writer about one of her books. Five years later the tables have been turned. I have moved to Lagos, Nigeria's biggest city, and Chika comes to see me. A good moment to compare our notes on life as a stranger. 'Belgians find it self evident that an immigrant eats chips.
Read my interview with Chika on Brittlepaper
A booming city of millions with an economy in overdrive. The urban development of Lagos, Nigeria's largest city, comes with its own dilemmas. One of the questions is what to do with the urban slums. Do you break them down, or do you try to improve them? In fishing community Makoko, the most famous slum of Lagos, built on poles in the water, an Amsterdam based Nigerian architect is trying to build, where others are demolishing.
Read my article (in Dutch) on Makoko
It seems a lifetime ago, my interview with Dutch late night radioshow 'Met het oog op morgen' just before I left for Nigeria. Over seven months later I listen to it again, now from an unstable internet connection in my Lagos apartment. 'An expensive little joke', I describe my moving to this metropole, one of the most expensive cities in the world. Every day confronts me with the high cost of living. The 'decent job' I spoke of I ended up not taking in the end. My freelancer's heart simply beats to firmly for such a thing.
Listen to the interview in Dutch
A slightly outdated website does not mean that I am not writing. My column Femke becomes Funke appears almost every week on the Dutch website OneWorld.nl
, and in English on several Nigerian sites. It covers all aspects of my new life in Lagos, Nigeria, from concocted electricity bills till Nigerian cuisine. The Nigerian sites are worth a visit, even if you have read the entries already. The comments of the Nigerian visitors tell a lot about the issues in Africa's most populous country.
Find Femke becomes Funke on these websites:
-- Premium Times Nigeria
After a couple of weeks in the Netherlands (a week longer than planned for reasons of Dutch bureaucracy) I have returned to Lagos. And I notice it right away. I have lost my skills. When I am buying a yam at the junction and are asked to pay 400 Naira for a sorry looking tuber, I try every trick in the book: the price does not go down even one Kobo. While I thought I had learnt the art of negotiating prices down so well from my friend Sola. Bargaining in Lagos requires special training and I am not about to graduate.
Read my column on YNaija
Sometimes it can make you cry. And really serious pepper soup does not allow you to talk while eating. It is of my favourite dishes from the Nigerian kitchen, though its spicyness takes getting used to. The good thing: because of the pepper, it is best taken with a cold STAR lager. A heaven made match. Pepper soup comes with many things, like fish (yummy), 'assorted' meat (like don't ask what kind), goat, snail or chicken. I used to stick to catfish, but last week I stopped being a fishtarian: I killed a chicken
. The fowl ended up in the delicious chicken pepper soup Elnathan John
prepared, who besides a brilliant writer, is also an excellent cook.
For the recipe of Elnathan's chicken pepper soup click 'more'(more)